Cityscape of Homs in Homs Governorate province — Ancient Emesa — gateway between coast and desert

Homs Governorate · 34.7307° N, 36.7233° E

Homs

حمص

"Ancient Emesa — gateway between coast and desert."

Province

Homs Governorate

Population

~750,000

Climate

Semi-arid; cool sea breezes through the Homs Gap.

Best Time

April–June and September–November.

Today's weather — Homs

Overview

Strategically positioned at the gap between the Lebanese and Alawite mountains, Homs has linked the Syrian interior to the Mediterranean since antiquity. The Crusader stronghold of Crac des Chevaliers stands an hour west.

History

Known as Emesa in antiquity, Homs was a celebrated centre of sun worship, home of the Severan dynasty's priestly family and the Roman emperor Elagabalus. It became a major Islamic centre and the burial place of the companion-general Khalid ibn al-Walid.

Highlights

  • 01Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque
  • 02Old City of Homs
  • 03Crac des Chevaliers (1h west)
  • 04Lake Qattinah
  • 05Industrial heritage quarter

Major Attractions

  • 01

    Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque

    Late-Ottoman mosque in striped basalt and limestone (1908) housing the tomb of the 7th-century Muslim general Khalid ibn al-Walid; a major pilgrimage destination.

  • 02

    Old City of Homs

    Densely-built historic core of churches (Umm al-Zinnar — the 'Church of the Holy Belt'), mosques, hammams, and the covered souq.

  • 03

    Umm al-Zinnar Church

    Syriac Orthodox church traditionally holding a relic of the Virgin Mary's belt; its 1st–4th century crypt is one of the oldest church spaces in the world.

  • 04

    Krak des Chevaliers

    An hour west of the city — the world's best-preserved Crusader castle, UNESCO inscribed.

  • 05

    Lake Qattinah

    Roman-era reservoir built by Diocletian, now a calm lakeside escape rimmed by reed beds and birdlife.

  • 06

    Citadel of Homs

    A massive earthen tell on the city's south side, with Mamluk and Ayyubid fortifications still tracing the summit.

Traveller Tips

  • Use Homs as a base for day trips to Crac des Chevaliers, Tartus, and Palmyra.
  • Public minibuses (servees) run frequently west to the coast and north to Hama.
  • Many neighbourhoods are under active reconstruction; respect closed-off zones and ask locally before photographing.

What to Eat

  • Batarsh

    Smoky eggplant purée whipped with tahini, garlic, and lemon — Homs's distinctive cousin of baba ghanoush.

  • Kibbeh bil-Saniyeh

    Baked tray of bulgur and minced lamb layered with pine-nut filling and brushed with olive oil.

  • Halawet el-Jibn

    Sweet cheese dough rolled around ashta cream and drizzled with rose syrup — though Hama claims it, Homs makes a celebrated version.

Other local flavours: Batarsh (eggplant) · Stuffed kibbeh · Halawet el-jibn

Where to Stay

  • Safir Homs Hotel

    Business hotel

    Reliable mid-range hotel in the new city with restaurant and parking.

  • Grand Basman Hotel

    Business hotel

    Central business-class option near the main commercial streets.

  • Al-Qasr Hotel

    Mid-range

    Simple, central, walking distance to the souq and Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque.