Maaloula

Overview

Maaloula clings to a limestone cliff 1,500 m above sea level in the Qalamoun mountains, 56 km north of Damascus. Its blue-washed houses stack up the rock face beneath two of the oldest surviving monasteries in Christendom, and it is one of only three villages on earth where Western Neo-Aramaic — the language of Jesus — is still spoken as a mother tongue.

History

The name means 'entrance' in Aramaic, referring to the narrow gorge said to have opened miraculously for Saint Thecla as she fled persecution. The Monastery of Mar Sarkis stands on a 4th-century temple platform and preserves a semicircular pagan-style altar older than the Council of Nicaea. The village was heavily damaged and looted in 2013–14 and its icons and bell towers have been progressively restored since.

Highlights

• 01Monastery of Mar Sarkis (Saints Sergius & Bacchus)
• 02Convent of Saint Thecla (Mar Taqla)
• 03Saint Thecla's Gorge
• 04Cliffside blue houses
• 05Western Neo-Aramaic language
• 06Clifftop panorama of the Qalamoun

Major Attractions

• 01

  Monastery of Mar Sarkis

  Founded in the 4th century on the site of a pagan temple, this is one of the oldest continuously used churches in the world. Its unique rounded marble altar with a raised lip predates the 325 CE prohibition on sacrificial altars.

• 02

  Convent of Saint Thecla

  Built into the cliff around the cave-tomb of Thecla, a disciple of Saint Paul. A spring inside the shrine is believed to be curative; the convent also runs an orphanage.

• 03

  Saint Thecla's Gorge (Al-Fajj)

  A 30-metre-deep, few-metres-wide slot canyon linking the two monasteries — walkable in 15 minutes and the single most atmospheric thing to do in the village.

• 04

  Safir Maaloula viewpoint

  The terrace above the village offers the classic view of blue houses stacked against ochre rock — best at late afternoon light.

Traveller Tips

• ›Ask a monk or shopkeeper to recite the Lord's Prayer in Aramaic — locals are proud to do so and it is the highlight of most visits.
• ›The gorge walk is easy but the rock is polished and slippery; wear grip shoes.
• ›Dress modestly for both monasteries; women may be offered a shawl at the door.
• ›Maaloula pairs naturally with Saidnaya on a single day trip from Damascus (about 1 hour each way).

What to Eat

• Monastery wine & arak

  Qalamoun vineyards supply the convents; small bottles of local wine and grape arak are sold at the monastery shops.

• Dibs (grape molasses)

  Thick mountain grape syrup eaten with tahini for breakfast — a Qalamoun staple.

• Walnut ma'moul

  Semolina pastries stuffed with mountain walnuts, baked heavily around feast days.

Other local flavours: Mountain trout · Monastery wine · Grape molasses · Walnut ma'moul

Where to Stay

• Convent guesthouses

  Pilgrim lodging

  Both Mar Taqla and Mar Sarkis keep simple pilgrim rooms; arrange in advance through the convent office.

• Damascus base

  Day trip

  Most visitors stay in Damascus and drive up for the morning — the road via the Homs highway is well surfaced.